A good dam is hard to find, part 2

In a previous post, I describe how we went out of our way to find the Barrage de la Rance – a tidal hydroelectic dam that is France’s “number one industrial attraction”. Turns out we were completely in the wrong part of France. Oops. Well, yesterday we were in the right part of France – so we went out of our way again (slightly) to see the dam. I’d only ever seen river dams, so at first approach the Barrange de la Rance is a little disappointing – low and squat. But we stopped in the visitor’s parking lot and walked around to the seaward side and it was duly impressive – great torrents of swirling sea water the color of jade were sweeping through the gates. We got stuck in a horrible traffic jam on the way out, but it was still worth it.
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Creature comforts

Hotels in the UK might be generally expensive, cramped and a little dusty in the corners, but one great thing abou them is that they all, without exception, have tea makin facilities. That means, a few packets of tea, nasty instant coffee, some bicuits and an electric kettle. I’ve never seen this anyplace else (though some American hotels have a coffee maker in the room) and I miss it. Coffee by the cup in France is expensive and I can rarely get enough as part of the continental breakfast to satisfy me. Yesterday, I spotted a French equivalent of a Wal Mart and dashed in to purchase tea, coffee and the means to prepare them. We had our first tea last night which proved restorative after our sea creature meal (see previous post – Creatures from the deep) and coffee this morning. I’m fully caffeinated now and raring to go.
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Vegetaux

We’ve only been in France for two nights and I’m already missing vegetables. The food is good, but it’s all bread, cheese, meat and fish – with a side of bread. Last night we scoured the sidewalk menus of the retaurants of Bayeux looking for some place that served vegetables. After some discussion, the Vol-in-Law told me that Normandy was hell on vegetarians. I’m not a vegetarian, but I need my veggies. We finally settled on a Tunisian restaurant, because I know that sort of food – at least as it’s servd in the UK is meat rich, but served with spices and stewed vegetables, tomatoes, peppers, onions, zucchini and even apricots. Well, not in Normandy. It’s mostly just meat. One cool thing about the restaurant was that it had a cat in residence. A three-legged cat, missing its left front limb. It hopped between tables begging treats from patrons. I’ve never eaten in a restaurant with a cat before, and I have to wonder if it’s some kind of health and safety violation. I took a picture of it, but the cat was distressed by the flash and hopped out into the road. Which then distressed the restaurant owner. According to my husband the French customers told on me “Americaine, photo, chat, blah, blah, blah”. The cat was retrieved safely from the road and given its three-leggedness, I have to guess it wasn’t the first time it had run out there. However, we were not offered the dessert menu.
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A good dam is hard to find

As we continued our road trip through France, we planned a route yesterday that went many miles out of our way and through slow back country roads so that we could visit a hydroelectric dam. A gal from the Tennessee Valley can’t miss a dam if the opportunity presents. My husband asked me if I was sure that dam was where I thought it was, and I had to answer that I was only “pretty sure”. He checked the guide book, and it turned out the dam was in a whole other part of France. How we laughed.
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Death of western civilisation

I had a suspicion before I came that France didn’t allow smoking in restaurants anymore. But as I watch the French go out on the street to smoke, (as I did) the notion is confirmed. I’m so disappointed with the French – the image of the beret wearing fellow with a cigarette stuck to his lip is endangered. I point this out to the non-smoking Vol- in-Law, who smirks and says “Yes, the lights are going out all over Europe.”
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Allo, allo

Well, we’re in France now with our brand new car battery and beacoup de klicks on the klickometer. We drove straight from Calais to Fecamp in Normandy stopping only at the loveliest rest stop/ gas station ever – all harmonious water features, reed beds and wildfowl. We climbed the observation tower to see lots and lots of fields. Fecamp is a seaside town with white cliffs that almost match those of Dover. Our hotel is cheap and nasty, but overlooks the sea.
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Missing the boat

We missed our sailing to France. But the nice breakdown guy directed us to a local garage where we bought the first souvenir of our journey – a new battery. We made a delayed 12:15 sailing narrowly having been waved thru passport control with the barest of gallic shrugs. He barely glanced at my American passport. We’re now in the onboard restaurant – awaiting our first french food.
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A poor start

So we begin our holiday in the parking lot of the Travel Inn, waiting for the breakdown recovery service and watching a young girl attempt to reverse around an imaginary corner as part of a driving lesson. Also my blackberry’s enter key has broken. So although I can still post – paragraph breaks will have to wait until I have access to a keyboard. I tried to clean it out last night with my husband’s good Scotch and a q-tip, but to no avail. The Vol-in-Law brought some coffee and a cold croissant. This was desperately needed as we had skipped breakfast in order to enjoy our leisurely meal on the Sea France ferry all the more. We have missed our sailing.